Nope, probably not how you think
by Jim Black, OSU Hood River County Extension Central Gorge Master Gardener volunteer
Remove a plastic pot from the typical nursery tree, and all may look perfectly fine for immediate planting, but dropping this root system in a carefully dug hole will likely be a disastrous mistake to be discovered in a few short years.
By removing the pot or burlap, all soil, and spreading the roots out so they can grow naturally.
Tree growth will be stunted and may cause death if planted too deep. The pen shows where the top of the soil was in the pot. After washing, the crown or top of the root zone is well below that point.
Most people who have planted or redesigned their outdoor living spaces have planted trees. They understand that it’s a fairly straightforward process: they buy a nursery tree that pleases their aesthetics, muscle it up into the back of their neighbor’s pickup if they have a great neighbor, drive home slowly enough to get dirty stares and maybe a honk or two. Then they dig a hole big enough to hold the root ball, fill it with water, plop the tree in the hole, then bury the roots as their final task. It’s hard work, they’re tired, but they’re satisfied that in a few short years, they’ll be drinking their morning brew in the shade cast by this lovely tree.
Hmm. Erase what you think you know, because it’s likely entirely wrong.
For your next tree planting adventure, take time to learn best practice from Washington State University Professor Emeritus Dr. Linda Chalker Scott. Dr. Chalker Scott firmly believes that most people do not know how to correctly plant a tree, and, she adds, that includes many professionals in the industry.
Her observations of planting errors include:
Choosing a poor species for the location
Will the mature plant ‘work’ in the desired location or will it outgrow the space? Is the species adaptable to the space conditions (sun and wind exposure, urban environmental conditions.)
Failing to prepare soil adequately
Examine the soil structure. Is it compatible with the plant’s needs? And if amendments are needed, the goal should be to keep soils texturally uniform.
Not examining the roots
Not inspecting the plants’ roots for quality before purchasing or before preparing a hole for planting is a common failure. Yes, the nursery should allow you to remove the plant from plastic pots (and if it doesn’t allow it, find another nursery). Most roots in containerized pots or those that are balled in clay and burlapped are flawed, she says. (Buying bare-root trees, however, can avoid the problem.)
Inadequate root preparations
All material must be removed from the plant roots before planting. “Take it all off,” she says. No burlap, no clay, no pots—just roots that you carefully untangle. And the process can look brutal to the uninitiated. Dr. Chalker Scott will quickly grab a garden hose with high pressure to eliminate the soil that clings to the hair roots. Even many longtime Master Gardeners and Extension professionals pale when they witness her methods, but her success wins them over in time.
Improper planting
Do everything right, and you can still lose a choice tree if you plant it at the wrong time. Chalker Scott recommends fall plantings when the temperatures are moderated, rain is likely, and a long winter of root growth awaits to prepare your tree for the stress of summer drought and blistering temperatures.
Match the hole you dig with the shape of the tree’s roots, and be careful to not plant too deep. It’s especially important to plant the crown of the root ball at the soil’s surface or slightly above. It must be visible. Another mistake people often make is to stomp the soil around the roots. Don’t. The roots need oxygen, so simply spread the soil around the roots and water the soil in. If stability is an issue, stake the tree loosely rather than compacting the soil.
And skip the transplant fertilizers and additives that are promoted on line and in many nurseries.They are not helpful and can, in fact, create a nutrient imbalance.
Poor aftercare and long-term management
Master Gardeners tend to be huge fans of arborist wood chips. So is Dr. Chalker Scott. The chips keep the soil cool, allow air and water to pass freely, and decompose to add nutrients in time. If you are concerned about your soil, have it tested, preferably before you do the planting, but don’t add fertilizers without first learning deficiencies and what is required to improve soil health.
More horticultural insights from Professor Chalker Scott are available on line at https://puyallup.wsu.edu/lcs/.
Oregon State University also has an excellent publication that includes additional information on the subject that includes extensive information on landscape considerations, tree choice and common myths: https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/ec-1438-selecting-planting-caring-new-tree.
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